Ox Cheek Stew

I've wanted to cook ox cheek for some time, mainly to wind up the kids about not being entirely sure which end of the ox the cheeks come from. Much nervous laughter later and truth be told I'm genuinely not 100% sure. Surely if it was the arse end these would be huge, right? Right?

Anyway, whatever end they come from they need a lot of cooking to break down that firm buttocky sinew. This recipe calls for five hours in a low oven. Oh, and a whole bottle of red wine. This is a seriously rich stew that is perfect for a busy winter Sunday. Absolutely delicious. The cheeks were ridiculously tender (not a sentence I thought I'd ever write) with a sauce crying out for a hunk of crusty bread.

Serves 6

Ingredients:
50g butter
3 large ox cheeks, trimmed and quartered
2 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with 1 tsp sea salt
150g smoked bacon lardons
2 onions, finely chopped
3 bay leaves
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
5 tbsp tomato puree
1 bottle red wine
salt to taste

Method:
1. Preheat oven to 150C/gas 2. Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat.
2. Roll the ox cheeks in seasoned flour, then pat off any excess. When the butter sizzles, add the meat and fry until well browned. Do in batched if necessary. Remove the meat to a casserole dish.
3. Add the bacon to the pan and fry until lightly coloured. Add the onions and bay leaves and cook for 6-8 minutes until softened. Stir in the garlic and tomato puree and cook for 5 minutes, stirring well to prevent the puree from catching.
4. Add the red win and bring to a boil. Carefully add all the casserole dish. Cover with a lid and cook in the oven for 5 hours until tender. Turn the meat occasionally.
5. When ready add salt if necessary and serve with mash and veg.

American Pancakes

A couple of weeks ago on the recommendation of my Norwegian potwasher I made some fishcakes from her homeland, which, I'm going to be honest, were tasty, but had a most unusual texture. I think I wrote at the time that they reminded me of rather fishy American pancakes: light and fluffy, but with the unmistakable taste of blended cod and haddock. The potwasher has since left in disgrace, last seen heading back to a Norwegian coastal town with a lot of weird "Os" in its name. I think she might even have nicked some Brillo pads and rubber gloves, but can't be sure.

Anyway, since this odd seafood/US pancake hybrid I've had a hankering for the real thing. Light, fluffy with lashings of crispy bacon and maple syrup. And no fish.

Makes 12

Ingredients:
135g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
 2 tbsp caster sugar
130ml milk
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tbsp melted butter, cooled slightly, plus extra for cooking

Method:
1. Sift the flour, baking powder, salt and caster sugar into large bowl. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk the egg and milk, and then whisk in the butter.
2. Combine the two mixtures and whisk until you have a smooth batter. Allow to strand for a few minutes.
3. Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add a knob of butter. When melted add heaped tbsp of the thick batter mix. You can normally do three to four at a time.
4. Once the tops start to bubble, carefully turn over and cook the other side for another minute.
5. Repeat until all done. You can keep the other pancakes warm in a low oven.

Sage and Mustard Pork Steak with Apple, Black Pudding and Champ

Sometimes on a Sunday I just can't be bothered. It'll get to 5pm and the usual mouthwatering aromas of roast dinner wafting from the kitchen are conspicuous by their absence. I just don't know where the day has gone and now the kids are getting hungry. It's time to raid the fridge and see what (not literally) leaps out at me... or completely write off the day and order a takeaway. (By the way, is it just me that thinks ordering a takeaway on a Sunday to be slightly sleazy? And I don't mean a hangover-busting breakfast pizza, we've all been there. It's kind of like having a beer while showering. It's a brilliant idea (no, really), but you just know your mum won't approve). Anyway, back to raiding the fridge. Hmm, pork steaks. A bit of leftover black pudding. Some potatoes and watercress. A fuckload of apples from our neighbour Colin (not to be confused with the fuckload of quince from our neighbour Jack). The mind races, the Indian menu is thrown back in that drawer with the matches, loose toothpicks, used batteries and tatty tea-towels. No more than 30 minutes later and dinner is served, and my goodness it's the right decision (mum would approve). Meaty, hearty and ridiculously comforting (the dinner, not my mum). Maybe I'll not be bothered next Sunday as well.

Serves 4

Ingredients:
Four pork steaks
1tbsp oil
100g black pudding, cubed
2 apples, cored and cut into eight
1 onion, halved and sliced
small handful sage leaves, torn (or 2tsp dried)
100ml chicken stock
2tsp wholegrain mustard

For the champ:
1kg potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 large bunch watercress
300ml milk
2 bay leaves
1 sprig parsley, chopped
4 spring onions, thinly sliced
50g butter, softened

Method:
1. Rub the pork steaks with a little oil and season with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan and fry the steaks for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden. Transfer to a plate. Add a little more oil to the pan and fry the onions, apple, black pudding and sage for 5 minutes.
2. Add the stock and mustard, then return the steaks and simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce has reduced by about a third.
3. To make the champ, heat the milk and bay leaves in a pan until boiling then take off the heat and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and add the chopped watercress and parsely.
4. Boil the pototoes in salted water until soft, then drain and mash. Add the milk, softened butter and spring onions, and mix.

Pulled Pork

If there are ever two words to send shivers down the spine of anti-hipsters everywhere, then surely "pulled pork" are they. Open a pop-up stall selling pulled pork anywhere in London and within minutes you'll be surrounded like moths to a smoked piggy flame by an ironically uncool army of ridiculous beards, sleeve tattoos and single-speed bikes. That's why when we decided to have a pulled pork night we imposed a strict maximum beard limit on anyone under 35. More than 2mm and you're not coming in. Of course, any hipster trying to circumnavigate our house rule with some elaborate facial latex make-up would instantly be given away by the fact that their trousers are too short and they're not wearing any socks. Divs.

Anyway, back to the pulled pork. If you're considering a party then you really cannot go wrong with this. A decent bit of pork (this recipe calls for 3kg) will go a ridiculous long way and is simplicity in itself to make. Rub your meat (leave it), leave for a couple of hours, then slow cook for about five. Serve with buns, coleslaw, potato salad and corn on the cob. To be honest, pulled pork is probably a bit passé for today's hipsters – I believe they have moved on to £5 bowls of cereals and £8 toasted cheese sandwiches. Divs.

Ingredients:
For the pork:
50g soft dark brown sugar
5tbsp smoked paprika
3tbsp sea salt
2tbsp cayenne pepper
2tbsp ground cumin
2tbsp ground black pepper
2tbsp ground fennel seeds
2tbsp ground coriander
2tbsp mustard powder
3kg boneless pork shoulder

For the BBQ sauce:
2tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 gloves garlic
200ml tomato ketchup
100g brown sugar
2tbsp water
1tbsp white wine vinegar
1tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1tsp mustard powder
1/2tsp smoked paprika
black pepper to taste

Method:
1. Mix all the dry spiced ingredients in a bowl. Put the pork in a shallow dish and rub all over with half the mix. Cover loosely with clingfilm and chill for 1-2 hours.
2. Heat the oven to 150C/Gas 2. Remove pork from fridge and rub over remaining spice mix. Transfer to a large roasting tin. Add 100ml water and cover with foil. Cook for 5 hours until tender.
3. Meanwhile, make the BBQ sauce. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a low heat. Add the onion and cook for 10 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and fry for 2-3 more minutes. Add the remaining sauce ingredients and simmer for 10-15 minutes until the sauce is thickened and the onions soft. Cool slightly then blitz until smooth.
4. When the pork is ready remove the layer of fat. This is unlikely to have become crackling. You can try putting it under the grill to get it to crisp up, but I feel it's never like proper pork belly crackling. Chuck it and weep silently. Remover the pork to a board. Cover with foil and rest for 20 minutes.
5. Shred using two forks. Add half the BBQ and mix. Serve with buns, coleslaw and add more BBQ if required.

Spicy Aubergine, Tomato and Apricot Soup (v)

Very quick and easy autumnal soup here, with more than a hint of warm Middle Eastern sun. Smoky aubergine, sweet tomato and apricot, and a truly lovely smack of background chilli. This makes a big batch and it's even better the next day.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:
675g aubergines (approx 3)
6tbsp olive oil
1tsp cumin seeds
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
110g dried apricots, finely chopped
2.5cm piece ginger, grated (don't bother peeling. Seriously)
450ml tomato passata
juice 1/2 lemon
1.5 litres vegetable stock
salt and black pepper to taste
1tbsp fresh coriander, chopped

Method:
1. Heat oven to 200C/gas 6. Cut the aubergines in half, brush with 3tbsp of olive oil and bake for approx 30 minutes until soft.
2. Remove from oven and roughly chop.
3. Heat remaining oil in a saucepan and sauté the cumin, onion, garlic and chilli for 2-3 minutes, without colouring. Add the apricots, ginger, passata, lemon juice, aubergines and half of the stock.
4. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly then blitz with a blender until smooth.
5. Add the remaining stock, check seasoning and return to heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the coriander and serve.

Spiced Quince Jam

Our lovely next-door neighbours, Jack and Peggy (Jack, in his 80s, is a toy boy, the saucy old seadog), have got this quince tree in their front garden and every autumn I've been amazed at the sheer abundance of fruit it produces. Then, after a couple of weeks of watching said fruit drop to the ground and slowly rot to a pulpy mess, it is quickly forgotten as thoughts turn to Halloween and beyond that to Christmas. But not this year. Oh no, this year I snaffled the lot. Yes, every single fruit (with J&P's permission, of course, and in exchange for a jar of raspberry jam and promise or further preserves to come).

I'm gonna be honest, I might have bitten off more of the bitter fruit than I can chew. I have a lot of quinces. My first foray into quince jam (below) used 3lbs of them, yielding four jars and enough left-over juice for three more. The dent into my bag was tiny. I fear that friends and colleagues are going to be politely thanking me for yet another jar of quince jam for weeks to come – and then heading to the nearest Google to find out just what the hell it is they are holding in their hand like a live grenade.

Well let me save them the bother. Put simply, a quince is a member of the apple and pear family and indeed looks like the bastard child of the two. However, if you're unfortunate enough to bite into a raw one (and still have your teeth intact beyond its rather firm flesh) you'll soon realise that this is a bastard child with ginger hair and a stutter. Its intense bitterness is enough to make your mouth shrivel up faster than a wicked witch in a rainstorm. It's no surprise that they're about as rare in your local Sainsbury's as a northerner happily paying 5p for a plastic bag.

What is immediately pleasing about the quince, though, is the fragrance: honeyed, perfumed and, well, surprisingly pleasant. Despite the sharpness, you just know that if you introduce these bitter buggers to a little sugar, ok, a lot of sugar, then you're going to be onto a winner. The recipe I have used adds some great Christmasy spices to complement the fruit, with the result being a delicious, rich-coloured jam that would be equally good as an ingredient for sweet or savoury. My god, it's good with cheese and crackers, and I think would be great to use instead of marmelade when smothering a ham before baking.

If you can source some quince, I urge you to give this go. If not, drop me a line and I'll send you a jar or six...

Ingredients:
3lbs quince, washed, stalks removed, cut into eight
4 cups granulated sugar
zest and juice of 1 small orange
zest and juice of 1 lemon
1/4 tsp ginger
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/4 tsp allspice
1/4 tsp cloves
1/4 tsp cardamon

Method:
1. Add the quince pieces, skins, cores and pips and all, to a large pan. Cover with water so the quince floats. Bring to a boil, cover then gently simmer for three hours until the fruit is soft.
2. Strain the juice in fine sieve, squashing the soft fruit to extract as much as possible.
3. Return 6 cups of the juice to a clean pan, add the sugar, orange, lemon and spices, and bring to a boil. Any remaining juice can be frozen and used for another batch.
4. Place a small plate in the freezer.
5. After boiling for 20 minutes the liquid will start to look dark and syrupy. To check it is the right consistency, remove the cold plate from the freezer. Add a tsp of the liquid and freeze for 1 minute.
6. To check if the jam is ready, remove the plate and push the jam with your finger. If it wrinkles then the jam is ready. If not, return plate to freezer and continuing boiling the quince for another 5 minutes before checking again. This can take 40 minutes or more for the jam to be ready.
7. Cool slightly, add a small knob of butter to remove any "scum" that might have formed on the surface and remove any peel, cardamon and cloves. Fill sterilised jars and allow to cool before sealing.

Steak and Kidney Pie with Iron Maiden Ale

 

I might have mentioned once or twice before that I bloody love pies. I also love real ale, but have yet to enter that smelly jumper and socks and sandals stage (although it's there thumbing its CAMRA good pub guide just over my shoulder). I'm also a big fan of Iron Maiden – the seminal British heavy metalists, not the medieval torture device. So what better way to celebrate the release of their latest album, Book of Souls – the 15th in their long and brilliant history – than with a meaty steak and kidney pie with Iron Maiden ale. Oh, didn't I mention that Iron Maiden also have their own beer, The Trooper, named after their Piece of Mind classic, brewed by the excellent Robinson's brewery in Stockport?
This will make one big pie to serve six, or, as pictured, three "sharing" pies. And when I say "sharing", I actually mean "touch my pie and I'll rip your bloody arms off"... Prepare the filling the day before for a richer flavour.

Ingredients:
1kg beef skirt or stewing steak, cut into 4-5cm chunks
oil
30g plain flour, well seasoned
300g lamb kidneys, cored and cut into chunks
1 bottle Iron Maiden's The Trooper (or similar ale)
1 onion, peeled and sliced
350g button mushrooms, quartered
1tbsp tomato purée
1tsp English mustard
1 bay leaf
400ml beef stock
salt and pepper

For the rough puff pastry
400g plain flour
pinch salt
200g butter, chilled and cubed
200g water, chilled

Method:
1. Heat a little oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Toss the beef in the flour and fry in batches. When brown all over, transfer to a large pan. Repeat with all beef and kidney, adding more oil if necessary.
2. Deglaze the pan with a third of the ale, scrapping off all the crusty bits of meat. Add to the pan.
3. Add more oil and soften the onion for a few minutes. Add to the pan.
4. Repeat with the mushrooms. Add to the pan with the purée, mustard and bay leaf. Add the stock and the remaining ale.
5. Bring to a boil, the gently simmer for two hours, stirring occasionally and until the beef is tender.
6. Check the seasoning then leave to cool, preferably overnight.
7. To make the pastry, mix the flour and salt in a bowl. Add the cubed butter and bring together with up to 200ml of the chilled water.
8. Form into a rectangle and roll on a floured worktop to a long rectangle about 1cm thick. Fold toward you the top third, then fold up the bottom third to form book.
9. Rotate 90-degrees and repeat five times to build up the layers. Chill for at least one hour.
10. When readyto cook the pie, heat the oven to 190C/gas 5.
11. Remove pastry from the fridge and cut off one-third for the lid. Set aside. Lightly grease a 1.2lt pie dish. Roll out the bigger bit of pastry so it fits the dish with an overhang. Brush the rim with beaten egg.
11. Roll out the lid to fit. Crimp the edges and make a hole in the top.
12. Brush with beaten egg and bake for 50-60 minutes. Leave to stand for 15 minutes before serving with mash, veg and more Iron Maiden ale.

Top three tenuous Iron Maiden/cooking songs:
1. Aces Pie
2. Bun to the Hills
3. Thyme of the Ancient Marriner

Jerk Chicken with Rice and Peas and Jalapeno Flatbread

Why isn't Caribbean food more of "a thing" in this country? Among the diverse cultural cuisines that have enriched this country over the past 50 to 60 years, Caribbean cooking seems to be disproportionately under-represented. Visit any town in the UK and you won't have any trouble encountering the ubiquitous Indian, Chinese and kebab takeaways. Delve a little deeper and you will likely find an Italian or pizzeria, possibly a Mexican, a tapas bar, piri-piri chicken or even a rib-shack with its Deep South smoky flavours. But where is the goat curry and jerk chicken? Unless you visit an area with a strong Caribbean community – Brixton immediately comes to mind in my recent experience – the tastes of Jamaica, Barbados, Trinidad et al are largely absent on British streets.
Things may be changing at the numerous and excellent food markets that are appearing, where pop-up stalls selling Caribbean cuisine mix aromas with those of Vietnam and North Africa and Middle East. And, of course, the success of Levi Roots and his reggae, reggae sauces are a common sight on the shelves of every supermarket. But a successful chain of Caribbean restaurants that'll tap into the success of Nando's? Maybe it'll be the next trend.
Jerk chicken is best cooked over hot coals, but is equally as good in the oven and then browned off at the end for that crispy skin. If barbecuing, cook for 40 to 50 minutes over a medium heat, turning frequently. The method below is for an oven.

Ingredients (serves 4)
1tbsp allspice berries
1tbsp black peppercorns
1tbsp dried chilli flakes
1/2tbsp muscovado sugar
2tbsp runny honey
a few sprigs flat-leaf parsley
a few sprigs fresh coriander
2 scotch bonnet chillies
1 glove garlic
3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled
2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
olive oil
4 chicken thighs, skin on
4 drumsticks, skin on

For the flatbreads:
250g self-raising flour
250g yoghurt
1/2tsp baking powder
1 jalapeno chilli, finely sliced

For the rice and peas:
50ml vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
300g long-grain rice
400ml water
400ml coconut milk
400g tin kidney beans, rinsed and drained
3tbsp fresh thyme
salt and pepper
fresh coriander to garnish

Method
1. Pound the allspice berries, peppercorns and chilli flakes in a pestle and mortar, then add the sugar and honey.
2. Finely chop the herbs, chillies, garlic and ginger and add to the mix.
3. Add the green parts of the spring onion and a good drizzle of olive oil. Mix well.
4. Pour marinade over the chicken and thoroughly coat. Marinate in fridge for a couple of hours, preferably overnight.
5. Heat an oven to 200C/gas 6 and cook the chicken for 25 to 30 minutes, finishing off in a grill pan for that charred, smoky effect.
6. For the flatbreads, mix the flour, yoghurt, baking powder and pinch of salt in a bowl. Knead on a lightly floured surface.
7. Divide into four pieces and roll each one into a circle about 2mm thick. Scatter over the jalapeño and push in.
8. Rub a grill pan with olive oil and cook the flatbreads for two to three minutes per side.
9. For the rice and peas heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the onions until translucent.
10. Add the rice, stir well and add the water and coconut milk.
11. Bring to the boil and add the kidney beans and thyme. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes until the rice is cooked.
12. Season and garnish with coriander.

Raspberry Jam

We've been growing raspberries in The Albion Tavern's beer garden for a couple of years now, and this year has seen a flourishing crop of fruit. We grow a late-season variety, which is perfect for harvesting after the summer fruits have long-since been enjoyed. Here is a very easy jam recipe. 1kg of raspberries will be enough to fill four jars.

Ingredients
1kg raspberries
1kg jam sugar
1 lemon

Method
1. Place half of the raspberries in a large pan with the juice of one lemon.
2. Gently heat for five minutes while mashing the fruit.
3. Strain the fruit into a bowl and then push the pulp through a sieve. Discard the leftover seeds.
4. Return the strained fruit to the pan and add the sugar. Stir over a gentle heat until all the sugar is incorporated.
5. Add the remaining fruit, then bring to a fierce boil (or 106C) for five minutes.
6. You can test the jam by placing a dollop onto a very cold plate, but I think with raspberry jam you can tell when it is starting to look glossy and sticky.
7. Allow to cool slightly then spoon into sterilised jam jars.
8. Once completely cool, jam should be set.

Norwegian Fiskekaker

In what is likely to be the most anti-climactic comeback since The Second Coming by The Stone Roses, I’m re-opening The Albion Tavern after an almost three-year rat infestation with a bit of a surprise dish ­– Norwegian fishcakes, aka fiskekaker. That’s right, kaker. Now the Norwegians must have an inferiority complex when it comes to their neighbours and culinary delights. Where Denmark has bacon and beer (not to mention pastries), Sweden has meatballs and Absolut vodka. Norway, meanwhile, has a salt cod dish so famous in Portugal, it even has a Portuguese name, bacalhau, and a piss-coloured liqueur tasting of dill and caraway called akvavit, which literally (and laughingly) translates as “water of life”.

And it doesn’t stop at food and drink ­– or even at Norway’s Scandinavian cousins. Take Norway’s most famous explorer, Roald Amundsen, for example. Even the first man to reach the South Pole is somewhat overshadowed by the blokes who finished second, Captain Scott, Oates et al, and their tale of bravery, sacrifice, camaraderie and, well, painful and lonely death. Makes you proud to be British.

By Odin, even the vikings aren’t as good.

Swedish vikings, yesterday

Danish vikings, yesterday

A Norwegian viking, yesterday

So why fiskekaker, then? Well apart from the rather amusing name, I’ve just hired a Norwegian pot-washer whose grandma (or mormor – literally, mothermother) sent me this recipe to try. Apparently mormor likes to make these while morfar (motherfather) is trawling the North Sea (probably in British waters) for our cod and haddock like a morfacker.

I’m not gonna lie here, the results were not what I was expecting, and certainly don't expect a traditional "western" fishcake. In fact, what you get is a kind of fishy American pancake batter. Doesn't sound very appealing, I know, but once cooked you get a very light and fluffy delight. Very tasty and very moreish. I did jazz up the accompaniments and presentation a little from the traditional Norwegian (boiled potatoes and carrots), and did play with the ingredients a little. If you aren't lucky enough to have a Norwegian pot-washer with a suspiciously large supply of potato flour, then substitute corn flour instead. Also, the original instructions called for cakes slightly larger than a nugget, but smaller than a morfar. I obviously ignored this and made fishcake-sized, er, fiskekaker.

Ingredients (serves four, making 8 large fiskekaker easily)
For the fiskekaker:
600g white fish fillets, such as cod or haddock, skinned
2 tsp potato flour
2 tsp salt
2 eggs
200ml milk
200ml double cream
1/2 tsp pepper
3 tbsp chives
1 large shallot, sliced
1 garlic glove, sliced
2 tbsp pepper

Serve with:
Bacon
Shallot
Chives
Carrots
Capers
Boiled egg
Creamy mash

Method
1. Pre-heat over to 140C/gas 1.
2. Cut fish into chunks and pulse in a blender with salt.
3. Add potato flour and stir.
4. Add eggs, cream, milk, pepper and chives and mix well to a smooth consistency.
5. Gently fry the shallot and garlic until soft. Add to mix and combine.
6. Heat butter over a medium heat in a large pan.
7. Add large spoonfuls of the fish mix. You will probably have room for 4 generous cakes at a time.
8. Fry for 5 minutes per side.
9. Place in oven on a low heat for 10-15 minutes.
10. Serve with fried bacon strips, shallots, sautéed carrots, capers, a boiled egg and creamy mash, while listening to a-ha's Take On Me, which, let's be honest, is better than anything by Abba.

Beetroot Arancini with Goat's Cheese

Beetroot Arancini with Goat's Cheese

Arancini are deep-fried Sicilian risotto balls and I'm really pleased with how these turned. These are also great for a picnic, especially if you make them slightly bigger and put a piece of goat's cheese in the middle. Posh veggie scotch eggs, innit. Follow the recipe for beetroot risotto, but double the quantities and make this the next day with the leftovers. I'm not going to lie – they are a faff (and your hands will be a bright shade of red for about a week), but utterly worth the effort.
Makes 12-16

Ingredients:
half of the beetroot risotto
3 eggs
flour
breadcrumbs
vegetable oil

Method:
1. Take tablespoon amounts of the risotto and roll into a ball. Cover in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs and place on a plate ready for frying. Repeat until you have the number you desire.
2. If you are making large arancini, use more risotto and make a cavity in the middle to place a piece of goat's cheese before sealing with rice. For small arancini, melt goat's cheese over the top once cooked.
3. When ready to cook, heat vegetable oil in a heavy-bottomed pan to 170C and fry until golden brown and piping hot.

Beetroot Risotto

Beetroot Risotto

Bored of boring old risotto? Liven it up with an amazing burst of colour and the pungent, earthy flavour of beetroot. Serves 4.

Ingredients:

Beetroot Purée
3 small to medium beetroot
olive oil

Method:
1. Preheat oven to 180C/350F/gas 4.
2. Scrub beetroot thoroughly to get rid of any dirt. Top and tail each and place in a roasting dish. Drizzle with a little oil and roast until tender – around 45-60mins.
3. Allow to cool slightly, peel and place in a food processor. Drizzle in a little olive oil while processing until it forms a smooth purée. Season and set aside.

Risotto
1 small onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
250g Arborio rice
2 sprigs fresh thyme
150ml red wine
1 litre vegetable, heated and kept warm
250g parmasan, grated
50g butter

Method:
1. Sauté onion in a couple glugs of olive oil until softened. Add garlic and cook for a further couple of minutes.
2. Add rice and thyme and stir for a minute until the rice is sealed. Add the red wine and deglaze the pan. Once wine is absorbed add a ladleful of stock to the rice. Continue stirring until absorbed.
3. Continue doing this until rice is cooked al dente. Add parmesan cheese and butter and stir through. Rice should be slightly wet, but creamy and glossy.
4. Add beetroot purée a tablespoon at a time, to your tastes. It is a strong flavour so make sure you taste after each addition.

Chicken Kievs

Chicken Kievs

I haven't eaten chicken kievs for about 15 years. They're just not something on my culinary radar, ever since I was a student and one of my flatmates at the time used to think nothing of seeing off two of the big buggers with a whole bag of oven chips thrown in for good measure. It put me off, to be honest. That was until the Euro Championships this summer, held in Poland and Ukraine, with the final in Kiev. With a recipe from Gordon Ramsay downloaded, this was the obvious choice for dinner. It was good. Damn good, in fact, and I've got loads of the tarragon butter left over to use for fish.
Serves 4

Ingredients:
200g butter, softened
3 fat cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
small handful chopped tarragon
small handful chopped fresh parsley
4 free-range skinless, boneless chicken breasts, about 150g each
100g plain flour
pinch paprika
2 large free-range eggs, beaten
100g dried breadcrumbs
2-3 tbsp olive or sunflower oil, for frying
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Method:
1. Preheat oven to 190°C/gas 5.
2. To make the filling, mix the softened butter with the garlic, tarragon, parsley and seasoning. Chill in the fridge until ready to use.
3. For the chicken breasts, check first to see if they have a separate under-fillet, which chefs call a supreme. If so, don't detach it. Using a small, very sharp knife, make a slit in the flesh of each breast fillet from top to bottom, creating a pocket at a slight slant.
4. Spoon the butter mixture into the pocket. If you have fillets with supremes, then simply fold these over the slits to cover them.
5. Mix the flour, pinch of paprika and seasoning together in a shallow bowl. Tip the beaten eggs into another shallow bowl and the breadcrumbs into a third. Toss the stuffed chicken breasts first into the flour to coat, shaking off any excess, then slide them one at a time into the egg and turn until covered. Finally, dip each into the breadcrumbs, again shaking off any excess. Lay the breasts, slit sides down, on a plate and chill to help firm the crumb coating.
6. When ready to cook, pour the oil into a medium frying pan to heat until you can feel a good heat rising. Add the chicken breasts and colour for 1-2 minutes on each side, until lightly golden. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for approximately 12-14 minutes until golden brown and the chicken is thoroughly cooked.

Thai Turkey Burgers

Thai Turkey Burgers

Bit of another quickie as I realise I haven't posted for a while and I've had this recipe knocking around for a bit. These were an absolute winner at The Albion Tavern, eagerly devoured by two hungry boys and one even hungrier dad. From opening the packet of mince to shoving cooked burger in gob took no more than 30 minutes. These were served with a huge mound of sticky rice. Probably best not to serve this to a two-year-old who eats everything with his fingers. We were finding remnants of rice all over the place for hours. Recipe from BBC Good Food. Makes four burgers.

Ingredients:
400g turkey mince
4 spring onions , finely chopped
1 tsp grated root ginger
1 red chilli , seeded and finely chopped
1 egg yolk
small bunch coriander, chopped
1 tbsp sunflower oil
4 ciabatta rolls
a few sprigs watercress


Method:
1. Put the first 6 ingredients in a bowl, season and mix well. Form into 4 burgers.
2. Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan and fry the burgers for about 5 minutes on each side until golden and cooked through.
3. Serve the burgers in rolls with some watercress and a little sweet chilli sauce if you like.

Lamb Kofta

Lamb Kofta

Tabouleh

Yes, yes, yes, it looks like a poo on a stick, but try to get past the fecal lollipop image because these lamb kofta are just amazing. Bursting with all those flavours that remind you of Mediterranean holidays (or trips down the local kebab house for the credit conscious) – cumin, coriander, cinnamon. Oh my god, maybe I've some sort of scat fetish because my mouth is wetter than an otter's pocket just thinking about them. These kofta (a marriage of recipes from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Rick Stein) were devoured with a simple mint yoghurt (natural yoghurt, a handful of freshly chopped mint, done) and a version of tabouleh, but with quinoa instead of bulger wheat (because I'd run out) and nowhere near enough flat-leaf parsley (because I'd run out). Makes 8 kofta.

Ingredients:
900g minced lamb
2 onions, finely grated
2 tsp fennel seeds

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp coriander seeds
2 tbsp sweet paprika

1 tbsp harissa paste

1 tbsp salt

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp cayenne pepper

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

4 garlic cloves, very finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil

Method:
1. Heat a dry frying pan over medium heat. Add the fennel, cumin and coriander seeds, toast until fragrant – about a minute – then pound with a pestle and mortar until fine. In a bowl, mix with the other seasoning ingredients. Add the minced meat and combine with your hands. Cover and refrigerate overnight for the flavours to develop.
2. Divide the mixture into eight and mould each portion firmly around a skewer in a sausage shape. (If using wooden skewers, make sure you soak in water first.)
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and fry the kofta until they're cooked through – about 10 minutes.

Cauliflower Cheese

Cauliflower Cheese

You can't beat cauliflower cheese. It's a welcome addition to any Sunday roast – just brilliant with beef or chicken – or just have it on its own with hunks of crusty bread. The key to its success is the cheese sauce. It needs a good zing of black pepper and nutmeg (or try adding a teaspoon of Dijon mustard), and by Christ it needs to thicker than a BNP pub quiz team. This recipe comes from Nigel Slater, a "celeb" chef who I  have a ridiculous amount of time for. Serves 4.

Ingredients:
1 large cauliflower, cut into florets
550ml full-fat milk
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
2-3 cloves
1 bay leaf
50g butter
50g plain flour
125g mature cheddar, grated

To finish:
nutmeg, freshly grated
parmesan or cheddar, grated

Method:
1. Steam cauliflower until tender.
2. Make a rich cheese sauce by warming 550ml of milk in a pan. Season with peppercorns, a couple of cloves and a bay leaf and bring to the boil. Turn off and allow to infuse for 15 minutes.
3. Melt together butter and flour, stirring until it thickens, then whisk in the strained milk. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and stir in grated mature cheddar and simmer for 15 minutes.
4. Finish with a little grated nutmeg. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower, scatter with a little parmesan or cheddar and bake at 200C/gas 6 for 25-30 minutes.

Tagliatelle alla Carbonara

Tagliatelle alla Carbonara

I've only had one experience with home-made pasta before, when my wife had a go at making some sort of beetroot and ricotta ravioli a few years back. I remember it being tasty, but my over-riding memories of the meal were waiting what seemed like a whole weekend for it to be ready and then going into the kitchen afterwards and almost weeping at the mess that met me. Home-made pasta has since been off the menu at The Albion Tavern. That was until I bought this beauty from Amazon.

Two days later, pasta flour bought and the wife banished from the kitchen I was ready to pop my pasta cherry with a classic carbonara. And when I mean classic, I mean classic. Made the Italian way, without – and this is the important bit – cream. Search for authentic carbonara recipes and you will find that it's the addition of beaten eggs to the dish at the last moment that coats the pasta and gives it its rich creaminess. The actual pasta making process itself was pretty straightforward and mess-free, and within 30 minutes I had perfect-looking tagliatelle ready for cooking. The result was pretty impressive. Look, I'm not to lie here and say that home-made pasta is infinitely better than fresh shop-bought, but it's certainly more satisfying to make. Here's the basic pasta recipe, with classic carbonara. Serves 4.

Basic Pasta
Ingredients:
340g pasta flour
2 eggs, beaten

Method:
1. Make a well in the centre of the flour. Add the eggs and combine until a smooth dough comes together. Add small amounts of tepid water if too dry.
2. Knead with the palm of your hand for a couple of minutes. Wrap in clingfilm and leave for 20 minutes to firm up.
3. That's it. It then needs to be rolled through a pasta maker and cut with the desired attachment. Cook in salted boiling water for 2 minutes.

Tagliatelle alla Carbonara
Ingredients:
2 tbsp olive oil
125g streaky bacon, diced
3 clove garlic, finely chopped
400g fresh tagliatelle
3 large eggs, beaten
handful parsley, chopped
50g pecorino or parmesan, grated
black pepper

Method:
1. Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the bacon and fry gently for 5 minutes until golden. Add the garlic and fry for a further 2 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta for 2 minutes. Drain, but save a little of the cooking liquid.
3. Add pasta and reserved liquid to the bacon and garlic. Remove from heat. Toss to coat and add beaten eggs. The heat from the pasta will be enough to cook the eggs. The pasta wants to be shiny. Again toss to coat and add parsley and cheese.
4. Toss a final time and divide between four plates or pasta bowls. Serve with more cheese and a twist or two of black pepper.

White Chocolate Berry Cake

White Chocolate Berry Cake

Not mine, this one, but a stunning Easter creation by the missus that is well worth sharing with your disciples before buggering off.

Ingredients:
185g soft unsalted butter
185g caster sugar
3 free-range eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp vanilla extract
185 self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
pinch salt
75g white chocolate, grated
strawberries and raspberries
chocolate eggs
icing sugar to dust

Method:
1. Preheat oven to 180C/gas 4. Grease a ring tin or bundt tin. Put all the ingredients except berries, chocolate eggs and icing sugar into a large bowl and mix until just combined and smooth. Don't over-beat.
2. Spoon the batter into the tin, smooth the top and bake for 30-35 mins or until risen and golden.
3. Cool in the tin for 5 mins, then turn out onto a wire rack and allow to cool completely.
4. To serve, dust with icing sugar and fill centre with berries and chocolate eggs.

Roast Leg of Lamb Stuffed with Spinach & Gremolata

Roast Leg of Lamb Stuffed with Spinach & Gremolata

My oldest boy has recently started to understand food and its provenance, rather than everything being divided into meat (good), vegetables (bad). Things came to a head the other week when I half-jokingly said I wanted to make a rabbit stew, and his little bottom lip started to tremble and his eyes filled with tears. The wuss. So imagine my disappointment – and mild panic – when he said he didn't want to eat lamb any more because it came from "baby" sheep (pigs and cows, bring on their bloody carcases; fluffy, wuffy sheep, no thanks). The mild panic came from the fact that I was planning a leg of lamb, boned and butterflied by a skilled butcher, then stuffed, rolled and roasted to be the centrepiece of a family Easter feast (delicious magazine does it again). Two options came to mind: 1) lie, say it's beef or 2) ignore the little bugger and just whack a great bloody piece on his plastic Mr Tickle plate. Take a wild guess at what I went for... Serve 5-6 (or fewer if one of the diners suddenly realises that lamb is the best meat going and wants seconds and then thirds).

Ingredients:
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
125g spinach leaves, washed
1.5-1.75kg leg of lamb, boned and butterflied (keep the bone for roasting)

For the gremolata:
grated zest of 1 lemon
2 fat garlic cloves, finely chopped
15g fresh flatleaf parsley leaves, chopped

For the gravy:
200ml white wine
400ml fresh chicken stock, hot
2 tsp butter, softened
2 tsp plain flour

Method:
1. Heat half the oil in a large pan over a medium-low heat. Gently sauté the onion for 7-8 minutes, until soft. Set aside in a bowl.
2. Add a tablespoon of the remaining oil to the same pan. Add the spinach and cook until just wilted. Tip into a colander and press out the excess liquid, then coarsely chop.
3. To make the gremolata, mix the lemon zest, garlic and parsley in a large bowl. Add the chopped spinach and onion. Stir and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spread the mixture along the centre of the lamb. Roll tightly and tie with string. Weigh the lamb and calculate the cooking time, allowing 16 minutes per 450g for pink lamb.
4. Preheat the oven to 230C/gas 8. Rub the lamb with the remaining olive oil and season. Put in a roasting tin along with the bone and roast for 15 minutes so it starts to brown. Lower the oven temperature to 200C/gas 6 and roast for the remainder of the calculated cooking time. Remove the lamb from the oven and lift onto a platter. Cover tightly with foil and rest for 20 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, make the gravy. Tip out all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the roasting tin. Place the tin over a medium-high heat and add the wine. Bring to the boil, scraping the meat juices from the bottom of the tin. Reduce to about 4 tablespoons. Add the stock and boil for about 4-5 minutes, until reduced to a well-flavoured gravy. Mix the butter and flour to a paste and whisk small lumps into the gravy. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, until thickened. Season to taste. Keep hot over a low heat.
6. Carve the lamb. Strain the gravy into a warmed jug. Divide the lamb between serving plates and serve with minted new potatoes and griddled asparagus.

Spring Vegetable Minestrone

Spring Vegetable Minestrone

Another quick post today, and yes I do realise I haven't done a pie or a pudding for a while. Normal service will resume asap. Saying that, this was a real surprise in its beauty and simplicity. Serves 4.

Ingredients:
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and finely diced
1.5 litres vegetable or chicken stock
150g small pasta or spaghetti snapped into small piece
loads of mixed green veg. I'm not going to give weights, because, to be honest, I didn't weigh anything. Basically use a couple of handfuls of things like courgette, green beans, peas, broccoli.
1 red chilli, finely diced
4 tsp green pesto
grated parmesan cheese to garnish

Method:
1. Heat the oil in a large pan. Add the onion and chilli and sweat gently for 5-10 minutes, without colouring.
2. Add stock, bring to the boil then simmer.
3. Add the pasta and cook for 10 minutes. With 5 mins remaining start adding the veg (beans first, then peas, the courgette and broccoli). You want everything to be cooked at the same time.
4. Divide soup between bowls and top with a tsp of pesto. Grate fresh parmesan over the top.